Last summer, we were walking through one of the food markets in our neighborhood when I noticed a stall that sold horseradish. That’s it. Just horseradish, the prepared kind, that comes in a jar. And there were two versions: beet horseradish and citrus horseradish.

The woman selling it asked us if we wanted to try it. “Yes!” I exclaimed, a little too eagerly. I love horseradish. I love the kick and earthiness combination that nothing else gives you like horseradish. This citrus version that I tried was all that and more. By introducing orange and lemon in there it added dimensions of sourness and sweetness that made it pretty much irresistible.

Needless to say, we bought a jar and went through it pretty quickly. We put it on fish, eggs, pork, you name it. I’ve had fantasies of making a horseradish ice-cream, but it hasn’t happened yet.

The brand is called ish (get it?) and you can buy it on their website here. Or you can look for them in the outdoor markets of New York.